Results tagged “motor installation” from The GPSy EV Project

When I first started building my Boxer-EV, the motor I installed in it was the largest brushless motor available for RC systems:

Model: HXT80-100-B
Wire Turns: 8
Resistance: 32ohm
Idle Current: 2A
ESC Required: 130A
Input Voltage : max. 48V 
Kv : 130 rpm/V 
Weight: 1570g
Shaft: 12mm
Voltage Range: 20-48v
Non Load Current: 2.0A
Maximum Power: 6500W
Equivalent: 60-80cc Gas Engine

I've been very happy with it. With my 48 volt setup, I'm producing enough power that my drive belt started slipping -- so I reduced the gearing a bit to back off the torque. Still, vroom vroom.

ProgressiveRC.com has a great online list of RC brushless motors and you can sort by watts consumed. Looks like there are some great 10,000 watt motors (holy cowabunga!) the only problem being they are around US$2000 and above. My $130 + shipping RC motor is still on the top of the price/performance curve.

It looks like the dealer in Hong Kong I get things from has come out with a new version of the motor. The specs seem the same but they note: "Tight, thick copper windings and 48SH magnets make this motor a real powerhouse. The v2 motor also has screwed end-caps due to the amount of torque this motor produces!"

Model: TR80-100-B
Wire Turns: 8
Resistance: 32ohm
Idle Current: 2A
ESC Required: 130A
Input Voltage : max. 48V 
Kv : 130 rpm/V
Weight: 1570g
Shaft: 12mm
Voltage Range: 20-48v
Non Load Current: 2.0A
Maximum Power: 6500W
Equivalent: 60-80cc Gas Engine

I spent a few hours this afternoon installing the HXT outrunner motor. It was a bit larger than the MY1016 that I had previously had as a prototype. And as it is an outrunner, this necessitated a different type of engine mounting.

Here you can see the base end of the outrunner motor with the power leads on the left. The X shaped bracket came with the outrunner and is what I used to attach it firmly to my Boxer's left engine support bracket.

This is the view from the top. The main body of an outrunner motor rotates, so you can't attach the motor by the side. It has to be face mounted.

Here is the left side spindle with the V-belt pulley installed. The nice thing about retaining the CVT back end on the moped is that I don't have to adjust the pulley tension, it's done automatically.

This is the right side of the motor / moped. In order to have the pedals clear, I had to shorten the right hand (prop side) spindle. I left a small nub so that I later attach a flange bracket to lessen some of the side loading on the main bearings.

I had to cut away some of the sheet metal on the right hand motor bracket to fit the motor and its spindle in. This considerably weakened the right side bracket, which is a structural part of the suspension system.

This is the right side of the motor again, from the top. The green, black, and red wires visible are the mopeds low-voltage (6V) power leads to the headlight and taillight.

When I cut part of the right side motor bracket to fit the spindle in, this weakened the right side as it was a structural component. In order to make sure nothing Bad happened, I reinforced the bottom part of the mount with a piece of L aluminium bracket.

Once the ESC arrives, I can wire everything up and take her for a spin. I'm hoping that current pulley gearing will give me around a 30 mph top speed. I'll be running her off a 24V SLA system at first, then when my NiMHs arrive, at 28.8 volts.

Higher than 30V and I need a new ESC, darn I knew I should've just bit the bullet and gotten the Phoenix HV100A.